How can you tell if you get enough grease in the universal joint? Remove one of the speedometer gear bolts and fill until you see grease come out. Replace the bolt.
This article was printed in the September/October 2010 issue of the “A” Quail Call by AJ Pennington.
When walking in parking lots, we look at a lot of A’s. One thing I notice is the front actuating arms on the brakes. Too often they are straight up or even leaned back a little. This means there are no front brakes because the travel is gone.
I was taught to have a 15 degree forward lean so you have travel. It’s an easy fix. You can insert brake pills: one, two or even three if necessary. Balance them top and bottom. Once done, you will notice a difference.
Another good brake trick is to balance your brake rods to length. You will need to disconnect all service brake rods where the adjustment is made. Front at the wheels and back at the cross shaft. Place pin in clevis one at a time and adjust until pin snaps over brake arm. Always be sure that all are loose as you do all four, one at a time. Then you will see that balance is achieved.
This article was printed in the October 2007 issue of the “A” Quail Call by AJ Pennington.
If like me you have lost points during the judging process on your muffler clamps, here is the proper tail pipe clamp installation. The tail pipe clamp was painted black, with a hex bolt, castellated nut and cotter key. Make sure that the tail pipe is correctly clamped to the frame and not over tightened to allow for expansion and contraction. The tail pipe for the 79-B Panel Delivery, the 150-B Station Wagon and the 255-A Special Delivery was made longer and exited to the center or rear of the vehicle. It was fastened to the spring clip bar.
This tech tip was originally printed in the Mar/Apr. 2001 “A” Quail Call.
All Model “A” wheels have the same bolt pattern. All hubs have the matching stud pattern. Unfortunately, it may be disastrous if you install the early 1928 AR wheels on later hubs or the later 21” or 19” wheels on the early AR hubs. Check page 328 of your Model A Service Bulletins. This book is a must for “A” drivers. When pulling wheels, check the area of the drum at the very base of the studs carefully for evidence the wheel nut has bottomed out on the drum. It is has, the hole is worn and elongated. Tight nuts do NOT insure the wheel is secured! The shell should bottom out on the drum at the outer diameter, not at the stud. Find a good wheel, or install a set of Snyder’s wheel nut washers.
This tech tip was supplied by Pete Amsler and printed in the May 1998 “A” Quail Call.