Model A Lubrication Chart
| EVERY 500 MILES | ||
| Location | Quantity | Grease Fitting |
| Grease Gun | ||
| 1. Upper Spindle Arm (Left Side/Right Side) | 2 | 4 |
| 2. Lower Spindle Arm (Left Side/Right Side) | 2 | 5 |
| 3. Brake Actuator Arm (Front Axle-L/R Side) | 2 | 5 |
| 4. Shock Link (Front/Rear-L/R Side) | 4 | 2 |
| 5. Spring Shackle (Front-L/R Side) | 2 | 5 |
| 6. Spring Shackle (Rear-L/R Side) | 2 | 5 |
| 7. Tie-Rod Ends | 2 | 3 |
| 8. Drag Link Ends | 2 | 5 |
| 9. Rear Axle Bearing (Rear-L/R Side) | 2 | 3 |
| 10. Rear Brake Actuator Arm (Rear-L/R Side, behind | 2 | 5 |
| Rear Radius Rod | ||
| 11. U-Joint (Under U-Joint Housing, behind Trans.) | 1 | 3 |
| 12. Brake and Clutch Pedal Bushing | 2 | 3 |
| 13. Emergency Brake Cross Shaft (Outside Frame-L/R) | 2 | 4 |
| 14. Water Pump | 2 | 3 & 1 |
| Oil Can (Squirt, SAE 30) | ||
| 15. Accelerator Control Shaft | 2 | |
| 16. Distributor | 1 | |
| 17. Starter Crank Hole | 1 | |
| Engine Oil (SAE 10W-30) | ||
| 18. Crankcase (Oil Pan, 4-1/2 Qts. at Oil Change | 5 Qts. | |
| 3:1 Oil | ||
| 19. Horn (Oil Twice Yearly) | 2 | |
| EVERY 1000 MILES | ||
| 20. Generator (Oil Squirt-SAE 30) | 2 | |
| EVERY 2000 MILES | ||
| Grease Gun | ||
| 21. Throwout Bearing Slider | 1 | 3 |
| 22. Steering Sector Shaft (1928/1929) | 1 | 3 |
| 600W Gear Oil | ||
| 23. Steering Gear Box | 1 | |
| Vasoline | ||
| 24. Distributor Cam | 1 | |
| EVERY 5000 MILES | ||
| Bearing Grease | ||
| 25. Front Wheel Bearings (Packed Bearing Grease) | 4 | |
| 600W Gear Oil | ||
| 26. Differential | 1 | |
| 27. Transmission | 1 | |
| Shock Fluid | ||
| 28. Shocks | 4 |
This tech tip was originally printed in the July 2002 “A” Quail Call.
Two-Tooth Steering Column
One day while I was at Snyder’s Antique Auto Parts, a fellow asked me how hard it was to adjust the steering box. It seems he was rebuilding a two-tooth box. I told him, “There’s nothing to it. Just follow the directions in the Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook.” This brought laughs from those in the showroom, but there is a very understandable chapter on assembly and adjustment of the two-tooth box on pages Sect. 1-290 through Sect. 1-305.
If you just want to tighten up your steering, you can make three of the four adjustments without removing the steering column.
First adjustment: Start by loosening the upper race jam nut on shaft end play bolt. Tighten end play bolt until snug and then back off 1/8 turn. Then tighten the jam nut and upper race locking bolt.
Second adjustment: Start by loosening the jam nut on sector shaft end play screw. With a stubby screwdriver, tighten sector end play screw and then tighten jam nut.
Third adjustment: This is the most critical and delicate. Jack the front end of your car up until both front tires clear. Spin steering wheel to make sure it spins free. Then with a 5/8” wrench, loosen the four housing cover nuts about one turn each. With a 7/8” wrench, turn the eccentric adjusting sleeve nut clockwise to tighten. Careful, a little bit goes a long way with this adjustment. Spin the steering wheel lock to lock in place, making sure you don’t have a high spot. If you do, you will know it. Turn it counterclockwise to loosen. With the steering aimed straight, wiggle the steering wheel while watching the front tires for play. When satisfied, tighten the four housing nuts and recheck your adjustments.
This tech tip was originally provided by AJ Pennington and printed in the June 2002 “A” Quail Call.
Ford Model A Paint Codes
This chart was originally printed in the August 2002 “A” Quail Call.
Do You Have The Need For Speed?
Do you want to keep up with the moderns? If you are looking for a little more speed, you have several options.
Why not try the high-speed rear end? The stock Model A rear end ratio is 3.78:1. In other words, the drive shaft turns 3.78 times for each tire rotation. The high-speed rear end increases the ratio to 3.54:1. At 45 MPH, the stock Model A engine is turning 1926 RPM’s. Maintaining the same RPM’s, with the high-speed rear end, you can push your car to 48 MPH. You gain 3 MPH. Excited?
OK, so you are looking to go just a little bit faster, think overdrive. There are several options on the market like Ryan, Mitchell, and Borg Warner. Borg Warner units are popular with Penn-Ohioans. Borg Warner units have the tallest overdrive reduction at 30%. You can set it up with a manual or electric shift. They also have some setbacks. With a Borg-Warner overdrive as engineered and built by Bob Greene or built, installed and serviced by Lloyd Young, they do not free-wheel unless and until the overdrive is manually (or electrically) disengaged by the operator. The holdback effect is not as great as in third gear, just as third is less than second gear. You need to be sure to disengage out of overdrive before shifting into reverse. Ask the man that owns one. Another popular choice is the Mitchell with a 26% reduction. It is fully synchronized, does not free-wheel downhill, and can be shifted into reverse without damaging the unit. You do have to be handy with a wrench because you have to install it.
What is the advantage of the overdrive? There are two advantages. First, you could continue to drive at your normal speed while in overdrive. If you were driving 45 MPH, instead of turning 1926 RPM’s, the engine is loafing along at 1414 RPM’s. That is the same as a stock Model A running 33 MPH. In this case, the overdrive could be saving you from an expensive engine rebuild. Still have the need for speed? If running in overdrive at 1926 RPM’s (45 MPH for the stock A), your actual speed is 61.3 MPH. 55 MPH comes in at 1699 RPM’s (40.3 MPH for a stock Model A). The overdrive allows you to choose between reducing the stress on the engine or to speed up with traffic. The only other questions are how fast can you stop? And, how fast do you want to go on four skinny tires?
There are two other choices, the overdrive transmission or the modern engine conversion. The overdrive transmission will give you similar results as a Mitchell or Ryan overdrive, however it may be easier to install. But there are some units on the market that require you to cut the frame to make them fit. Swapping for a modern engine may create even more problems.
By the way, do you know how fast a stock Model A should go? Peak horsepower is achieved at 48 MPH. The Model A was originally designed to travel at 60 MPH. The top end is 70 MPH at 3000 RPM’s. Sorry, no guarantees. Drive it at your own risk.
This tech tip was provided by Bob Hudec and was printed in the Jan/Feb 2003 “A” Quail Call.