As previously reported, many owners’ manuals were available for the Model A. The “acceptable dates” shown on the table located below will be used for determining the correctness of the owner’s manual displayed for judging.
This tech tip was provided by Walt Wawzyniak and printed in the September 2004 “A” Quail Call.
There were four suppliers for the Model A jack: Ajax – Racine, WI; Walker – Racine, WI; Auto Specialty – St. Joseph, MI; and Noblitt-Sparks – Location unknown. All Model A jacks were painted black enamel.
The A-17080 jack was a ratchet type with folding 2” top extension, 10 ¼” total height. It was a carry-over from the Model T Ford and was discontinued as a Model A jack about August 1929. The handle (A-17081) was also a carry-over from the Model T. It was made of ¼” flat steel, 7/8” wide and 16” long. It had a tire iron curve on one end and a round hole in the other which line up with the hole in the jack sleeve when in use. The handle was painted black.
In October 1928 the A-17080-A jack, made by Walker and by Ajax, was introduced. It was similar in design to the earlier type, except it did not have the top extension. The Walker and Ajax versions were nearly identical except for the shape of the bases. The Ajax jack had square corners on the base, while the Walker was rounded. Both jacks were 9 ½” high and used a new handle (A-17081-A) made of ¼” x 7/8” flat steel, 20” long with a quarter twist 3-7/8” from the handle end and a tire tool on the opposite end. This jack was used thru November 1929.
In November 1929, the A-17080-B1 jack, also made by the Walker and Ajax companies, was introduced. It was similar to the previous model, but was 8 ½” high because of the smaller diameter wheels used on the 1930 models. The handle was the same as the previous model. This jack was discontinued in August 1930.
In January 1930 jack A-17080-B2, manufactured by Auto Specialty, was introduced. It was 8 ½” high and was the first screw type jack. The base and screw housing were once cast steel piece with no rivets. For this jack a new handle (A-17081-B) was required. It was made of 3/8” steel rod and was 39” long when extended; 19-3/4” folded.
The A-17080-B2 jack was replaced in March 1930 by the A-17080-B3 jack made by Ajax. It was a screw type jack with open gears, an enclosed screw and 8 ½” high. The handle (A-17081-C) was made of 3/8” steel rod, was 35” long, but did not fold. The black painted handle was 1” long, 3/8” squared end to fit in the sleeve on the jack. It did not fit under the front seat of most Model A’s and was not usable with other jacks.
The A-17080-B3 was replaced in August 1930 by A-17080-C1 made by Auto Specialty. Like the earlier Auto Specialty jack (A-17080-B2), the base and body were one piece. The gears were enclosed in a pressed steel casing with no rivets. It was 8 ½” high. It used the same folding handle (A-17081-B) used on the earlier jack. These jacks were used until the end of Model A production.
Jack A-17080-C2, made by Ajax, was introduced in August 1930. The gears and screw were enclosed with a pressed steel casing with no rivets. The 8 ½” high jack used the folding handle (A-17081-B). This jack was also used thru the end of production.
In March 1931, still another screw type jack (A-17080-C3) was introduced. This 8 ½” jack was made by Noblitt-Sparks and had a pressed steel housing, which was riveted together. It used the same folding handle as the Ajax and Auto Specialty jacks.
Jack Handle
Jack Handle (New Design)
This tech tip was provided by Walt Wawzyniak and printed in the September 2004 “A” Quail Call.
It takes quite a bit of effort in putting a correct tool kit together. First you have to know the correct date your car was manufactured. Then you have to find the right owner’s manual, crank, jack, air pump and hand tools for that date. One mistake people make in collecting tools is looking for the Ford script. The Ford script was only used in early 1928. Each Model A was equipped with a 13-piece tool kit. Below are a few items that will help you identifying the correct tool to year.
GREASE GUN
The grease gun (A-17125) was nickel plated, made by the Alemite Mfg. Company. Both fine and coarse serrations on the cap are acceptable for all years.
TOOL BAG
The tool bag (A-17005 and A-17005-B) was approximately 11” long, 8 ¾” wide (when open) and 6 ½” wide (closed). The flap folds lengthwise, with one or two snap fasteners. It was made from leftover top material or artificial leather. Only one type of bag was used throughout Model A production and it did not have a Ford script marking.
ADJUSTABLE WRENCH
All adjustable wrenches were 9-3/8” long and had a square end on the handle, which is used to remove the drain plug for the differential housing. Some wrenches did not have the Ford script.
SPARK PLUG WRENCH
There were four variations to the spark plug and cylinder head wrench (A-17017). The first, used before February 1928, had a Ford script and was unpainted, with an 11/16” hex end. The second wrench, used from February thru April 1928, was the same except it was painted black. The third type was the same as the second, but dropped the Ford script and was used from May thru September 1928. The fourth type was painted black, with no script, was thicker at the hex head nut end, and was used from late 1928 to the end of production.
PLIERS
The pliers (A-17025) were of two types. The first, used until February 1928, had Ford script and was unpainted. From this date to the end of production the pliers were both script and non-script, and painted black. One handle tapered to a screwdriver blade.
OPEN END WRENCHES
The small open-end wrench (A-17015) fit 7/16” and ½” bolts and nuts. The large open-end wrench (A-17016) fit 9/16” and 5/8”. The same manufacturer supplied the two wrenches. Ford wrenches made after the Model A years were thinner and lighter than those supplied with the Model A, but are otherwise identical. These are incorrect.
SCREWDRIVER
The screwdriver had a wood handle with an unfinished or black enameled steel blade shaft passing entirely through it. The handle was finished with a black wood preservative. The ferrule was plain steel or nickel-plated.
TIRE IRON
The tire iron was initially carried over from the Model T Ford. Two design changes were made during the Model A production. In July 1928 one end was tapered so it could be used as a screwdriver. This design was dropped in November 1928, and the opposite end was changed to a spoon shape. Some of the spoon shaped tire irons have a square hole in the handle used to adjust the brakes. None of the tire irons had Ford script. Prior to February 1928 they were unfinished, but were painted black thereafter.
CRANKS
There were seven different cranks made for the Model A:
Year Part No. Fits Finish Lugs¹ Throw²
1927 (script) A-17036 11/16” cadmium 90° 8”
Jan-Feb 1928 A-17036-AR 11/16” cadmium 90° 8”
March 1928 A-17036-B 13/16” cadmium in line 7 ½”
Apr-May 1928 A-17036-B 13/16” black in line 7 ½”
June 28-Oct 29 A-17036-B 13/16” black 90° 8”
November 1929 A-17036-B 13/16” black in line 8”
Dec 29-end A-17036-B 13/16” black in line 7 ½”
¹ – Angle between a line thru two lugs and the center member.
² – Distance between the handle and the member carrying the lugs, measured along the center member.
TIRE PUMP
The first tire pump was used thru April 1928. It had a cast iron base with Ford script, and the several manufacturers designed different screws on top. Thereafter a second pump was issued, which had a ribbed, stamped steel base without a script, which was brazed to the pump cylinder. The hose was a black, cloth-covered rubber, 18-19” long, and attached with metal clips.
OWNER’S MANUAL
An owner’s manual was included with every vehicle sold after December 1927. The owner’s manuals were revised as major changes were incorporated into the cars. The copyright date corresponds with the year of the car, however there was more than one manual for each Model A year. For example, five were made for 1928. Individual dealers furnished the manuals as items of delivery equipment.
JACK
All jacks were made to Ford specifications, however minor differences did occur between the four manufacturers in the location of holes and rivets, and the contour of forged gears and pressed steel parts. All of the jacks were painted black enamel. Look for another posting for the publish pictures and descriptions of the different jack styles in an upcoming tech tip so that you can identify the proper jack for your month and year of vehicle.
This tech tip was provided by Walt Wawzyniak and printed in the July 2004 “A” Quail Call.
On our way to the Spring Banquet this year, my wife and I were riding with Les Meacham in his Fordor Sedan, following Don Harvey in his modified Tudor Sedan. Suddenly, two puffs of smoke came out of Don’s exhaust pipe. He immediately pulled off of the road into a vacant parking lot and we were right behind him wondering what happened. Without opening the hood, Don said, “The head gasket blew.” I don’t know how he knew this so fast, past experience I suppose.
He opened the hood and took out a long screwdriver from his bottomless toolbox and showed Les and I how to check which cylinder or cylinders are affected. He held the screwdriver blade to the head, with the engine running, and had the shank of the screwdriver to the spark plug wire. If a miss is noticed, that cylinder is okay. In checking the others, if no miss is noted, that’s where the gasket is blown.
Flying into action, Don pulled out the appropriate tools to remove the head as cylinders three and four were affected. Now taking the head off of Don’s engine is no easy matter, as there are water hoses for his hot water heater, wires and assorted plumbing for horns and whistles. He removed the head, replaced a new gasket and had the car running in just forty minutes. Being a novice in the mysteries of Model A’s, I was impressed with his instant diagnosis of the engine and fast repair.
The whole point of this story is knowledge and having spare parts and tools, including a torque wrench for the head bolts.
This tech tip was provided by Tom Easley and printed in the June 2004 “A” Quail Call.
-Just a reminder before every major trip or every oil change. Oil the distributor, even if it’s electronic. The rear bearing needs grease too.
– How can you tell if you get enough grease in the universal joint? Remove one of the speedometer gear bolts and fill until you see grease come out, then replace the bolt.
-Don’t forget to check your spare tubes periodically to ensure they have not dry rotted.
This tech tip was provided by AJ Pennington and printed in the October 2003 “A” Quail Call.