Aug 6, 2011
The following items are outdated in the Model “A” manuals.
Tire pressure-Since materials and manufacturing methods have improved, the recommended 35 lbs. of pressure is about 10 lbs. too high. Trying 25 lbs. maximum of air will improve handling, ride and reduce shimmy.
Oil change-Manufacture recommendation is RIGHT on. Manual choking dilutes oil. The cars operating temperature is much too low to vaporize and dissipate gasoline contaminating the oil.
If you do not use air and oil filters, use non-detergent oil. Modern detergent oils are designed to retain the dirt, which modern lube systems constantly filter out. Non-detergent oils allow dirt particles to separate from the oil and accumulate in the oil pan.
The recommended point gap setting of .018 to .022 is too much. Normal travel is about .025, full open to close. If the distributor wear is normal, the points may not close all of the time. A setting of .015 is sufficient to produce normal dwell time.
The recommended generator charging rate of 6 amps is right on. This is not sufficient for night driving. If you plan on doing night driving, go to an alternator 6 or 12 volts. An alternator will automatically adjust the output to maintain top battery voltage.
This tech tip was originally provided by Pete Amsler and printed in the Jan/Feb. 2000 “A” Quail Call.
Jul 30, 2011
Clutch Lining – Grease on the clutch lining is almost impossible to get out, there really isn’t a good cleaner available to remove it. If grease becomes badly embedded, it is most advisable to replace the lining A short term, emergency cure is to plug the opening in the bottom of the housing and pour in a gallon of hot water and detergent; idle the engine for two minutes with the clutch disengaged and then drain.
Clutch Chatter – If grease is allowed to get on the friction facings of the clutch it will begin to chatter during engagement and sometimes slip at high speeds. To remedy this, remove the clutch and install a new set of clutch disc facings. Also check the rear motor mounts for looseness if the clutch chatters. Motor mounts should be uniformly tight.
Clutch Wear – Two indications of clutch wear are: Engine races, but the car does not pick up speed and the clutch pedal adjustment has been used up. Premature clutch wear may be due to: Riding the clutch, lack of pedal travel clearance, racing the engine, and slipping the clutch when starting.
Pedal Movement – The correct free-play for the clutch pedal is approximately ¾” for the early multiple disc clutch and one inch for the single disc clutch. This is the movement which takes place before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. (See page 464 in the Service Bulletins.)
Adjusting the Clutch Pedal – The clutch pedal clearance can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the release arm rod. This is accomplished by removing the cotter pin from the clevis pin, then removing the clevis pin; this allows the adjusting rod to be turned. Turning the rod OUT increases the movement of the clutch pedal, screwing the rod IN decreases the movement. (See page 218 in the Service Bulletins.)
This tech tip was originally printed in the Jan/Feb. 2001 “A” Quail Call.
Jul 23, 2011
When hot weather sets in, a lot of A’s can experience vapor lock. Especially when pulling away from a stop. It is annoying to say the least.
Some have resorted to clipping on clothes pins the entire length of the gas line, or rubber hoses as insulators for a solution. This sometimes helps a little. But when vapor lock happens, these things aren’t always available. Gas additives like Marvel Mystery Oil or kerosene are also common fixes.
One thing that has worked is high octane gas. It has an additive included to prevent fuel line freeze up and vapor lock. The nice thing is that it is always available.
This article was printed in the August 2006 issue of the “A” Quail Call.
Jul 16, 2011
A twenty dollar item that can be a good safety device as well as a convenient tool is the kill switch. Due to the battery being under the floor, you are limited to the type of disconnect that can be used. The battery post type is not practical because you would have to fold back the mat and remove the cover plate to get to it.
The best one is the snap lock type that can be mounted above the starter or inside your A. If you have a Coupe or Roadster, it’s easy to mount inside your seat riser. Take the ground from the battery to the switch and from the switch to the ground. Sedans take some imagination to install inside the interior, but it is most convenient there.
The simplest install is to buy the bracket from Snyder’s or other providers that mounts above the starter. Take the battery cable off the starter and move it to the switch, then use a short cable from the switch to the starter. You have to open the hood to access the switch but it’s an easy install.
If you ever had your starter stick, you can appreciate this switch. Also, you will no longer have to remove the fuse. You will just snap the switch.
When purchasing the necessary items for this task, you will need a disconnect switch, bracket and cable. All three items should be available from your Model A vendor of choice.
This article was printed in the Jan/Feb 2007 issue of the “A” Quail Call by AJ Pennington.
