Jul 9, 2011
A good ground is essential for proper operation of the electrical and ignition system. A poor ground at the engine block and distributor can cause a weak ignition system and rough running engine. A poor ground in the electrical system causes higher than normal currents to flow resulting in burned out light bulbs. A poor ground to the starter causes a slow starting engine.
A good place to start adding a ground cable is at the battery. Remove the ground from the battery at the frame, clean the area to bare metal and add a double eyed cable from there to a bolt on the transmission. I have also added two cables from the frame to the bell housing on each side of the car. This is also a good idea for those running float a motor mounts.
This article was printed in the Mar/April 2009 issue of the “A” Quail Call by George Allison.
Jul 2, 2011
You might ask high speed gears or overdrive? Both are a good way for engine relief and less stressful driving on your Model A. Most A drivers are not interested in driving faster but in dropping engine rpm for less wear and less noise for more enjoyable cruising speeds. Before going this route, it must be understood if your car can handle the upgrade. Are your brakes sufficient and will your engine pull the gear change?
It’s not going to help changing gears, if you have a tired engine. A well-tuned engine with a high compression head is needed to pull the higher ratio. Without it you will notice no difference in performance.
A 3.78 ratio is standard in most A’s. Changing to a 3.54 ratio is an 11%increase. The new 3.27 ratio is a 27% increase. Most overdrive units are a 27% increase as well.
Some questions I receive are: Do you have trouble on hills and starting from a dead stop? I have had a 3.27 since 2001 and have not experienced any problems with hills or even mountains. If on major hills I do downshift, I am able to go 30 mph in second gear without over revving the engine. Pulling away from a dead stop is easy because low gear is so low a lot of people don’t even use first gear under normal driving conditions.
Below is a chart to help gauge the difference in ratios and tire size. Most pickups use 4:11/1 gear ratios, so I include it. Normal cruising speeds seem to be at 2,000 rpms. Ford rated the horsepower at 2,600 rpms.
MPH @ 2000 RPM
RATIO 28” TIRES 29” TIRES 30” TIRES 31” TIRES
4.11/1 40.28 41.73 43.17 44.60
3.78/1 43.80 45.37 46.93 48.50
3.54/1 46.77 48.45 50.08 51.78
3.27/1 50.64 52.44 54.23 56.06
MPH @ 2500 RPM
RATIO 28” TIRES 29” TIRES 30” TIRES 31” TIRES
4.11/1 50.41 52.21 54.01 55.81
3.78/1 54.81 56.77 58.73 60.69
3.54/1 58.53 60.62 62.71 64.80
3.27/1 63.36 65.87 67.86 70.15
This article was printed in the March/April 2006 issue of the “A” Quail Call by AJ Pennington.
Jun 25, 2011
When checking for oil in your crankcase, use a 3/32 drill or punch and measure from the tip of your oil dip stick up ¾” and then punch or drill a hole. This hole or mark will indicate there are 3 quarts of oil in the pan. Measure 1 1/8” from the first hole and punch or drill the second hole, this will indicate 5 quarts.
You will notice the holes or punch marks you’ve made are well above the L & F markings on the dipstick. If you have number stamps, stamp a “3” between L and the hole, and a “5” between F and the hole. This will give you a quick reading of oil in the pan.
This article was published in the September 2005 issue of the “A” Quail Call by Tom Easley.
Jun 18, 2011
What is good timing? How much advance should be used? How can I tell if it’s right? Questions we all hear.
Most old timers and some motor heads can tell by listening to the idle how well a car is timed. But the best way is with timing light. Nu-Rex makes a very simple unit that can be purchased through Snyder’s or Bratton’s to install on your “A”. Easy instructions are included.
Many times I find “A’s” running too far advanced. An easy way to tell is when you are driving on an open road with the spark retarded until you feel a loss of power. Then advance slowly while feeling power regain. When you reach a point where you feel no difference—stop. That’s enough advance.
Most distributors can be advanced as much as 30 degrees. Therefore running 0 to 30 advance is, in my opinion, too much. I never run more than 25 and prefer 20 to 22 advanced. I also like to set my timing at 5 degrees retard at full retard. It’s important to run enough advance to avoid overheating and carbon buildup. Always recheck your timing when replacing points as that does affect it.
This article was published in the September 2005 issue of the “A” Quail Call by AJ Pennington.
