Mar 19, 2011
If you hear TAPPING, it could be:
– Incorrectly set valve tappets
– Camshaft bore too large (camshaft too worn)
If you have Vibration in the engine, check:
– Engine not balanced before reassembly
– Flywheel or other “moving” components changed after balancing
– Balanced components not assembled as balanced
– Components not balanced together (static only – not dynamic)
– Dead or dying spark plug/distributor body and/or points
– Ignition; timing incorrectly set (usually too far advanced)
– Carburetor is running too lean
– Intake manifold; intake vacuum leaks anywhere in the intake system
– Fan is either bent or unbalanced blades, not properly “settled” onto taper of water pump shaft, or just plain loose
If you have other Vibration, check:
– Driveline; bent shaft or pinion gear lock nuts loose
– Differential; bad bearings and/or races, pitted or incorrectly set ring pinion, or bent axle shaft
– Transmission; bad bearings, bad gears, bad maindrive gear, and/or frozen pilot bearing in flywheel
– Wheels; extremely out of balance or bent. Loose lug nuts.
– Generator has frozen bearing
– Universal joint; not bolted to mainshaft to transmission, not packed, or just plain too loose
If you are Leaking Oil in the Rear of the engine, check:
– Main bearings too worn or out of tolerance
– Thrust face damaged or worn on rear main
– Gasket between flywheel housing and back of engine block forgotten or damaged
– Oil pan gasket improperly installed or damaged
– Oil return tube on rear main bearing cap missing or its oil return passage is plugged
– Rear main shims improperly installed
– Rear oil slinger improperly installed or missing
– Oil filler cap plugged or sealed
If you are Leaking Oil in the Front of the engine, check:
– Timing cover to crankshaft pulley packing damaged, worn or installed “dry”
– Timing cover gaskets damaged or improperly installed
– Crankshaft pulley excessively worn (you will see a deep groove worn in it)
If you are Leaking Oil in the Side of the engine, check:
– Oil pan gasket damaged or improperly installed
– Oil pan bolts not tight
– Oil return tube gaskets damaged or improperly installed
– Copper compression washers beneath oil return pipe mounting bolts forgotten
– Little pipe plug in side casting adjacent the oil pump forgotten
– “Blow-by” forcing oil out under the filler cap
This tech tip was originally printed in the July 2001 “A” Quail Call.
Feb 19, 2011
Anti-freeze: Drain the water from the radiator and close the petcock. Add the manufacturer’s recommended amount of anti-freeze. Fill the radiator to the top with water and run the engine long enough to mix the water with the anti-freeze. Leave this mixture in the radiator for the entire winter to avoid corrosion.
Battery: If a battery is unused for a long period (more than three months), an occasional charge will keep the battery alert. If you remove the battery from the car, clean and store the batter in a dark dry place. Never place a battery on cement or steel surface. Instead place it on a wood surface.
Brake: The brake should be in a relaxed (off) position.
Cleaning: The car should be cleaned thoroughly. Place moth balls in the pleats and pockets of the interior and spray all cloth covered areas with moth repellent.
Covers: A breathable cover over your Model A will keep the buildup of dirt and dust to a minimum. Do not use a rubberized cover as it will increase the level of condensation and further erode your paint finish.
Polished items: Coat all plated items with a thin layer of Vaseline to protect polished metals from corroding.
Transmission: The transmission should be left in the neutral position.
Ventilate: Leave a window open about ¼” to prevent a buildup of condensation in the vehicle.
Wheels: Jack up the vehicle so that the wheels turn easily, and place a piece of wood under the axle. This prevents dry rotting to occur on the portion of the tire resting on the concrete floor.
This tech tip was originally printed in the October 2000 “A” Quail Call.
Jan 22, 2011
The Model “A” is not the most fuel efficient car around. I plan my mileage about 1/2 obtained with my aging Caprice. The mixture rod assists in getting maximum mileage by leaning until rough, then backing off until smooth.
All carburetor airplanes use an identical system as the “A”, which is very effective. Modern piston engine airplanes, however add an exhaust gas temperature gauge, leaning to the maximum temperature about 1350 degrees F.
I have these in my “A’s”. Installation is simple and the cost is almost zilch. Remove one of the studs, clamping the intake manifold to exhaust. Take a new stud, drill a .060 hole lengthwise to accommodate a short length of iron and Constantine industrial thermocouple wire, twist together and braze the tip. When hot, this will produce voltage of less than 1 volt at 1350 degrees. I use a calibrated instrument with 2000 degree range for a read out. Any 1 volt gauge will work your concern is only the maximum temperature with a smooth engine.
Minor elevation changes will show a large difference in temperature. Adjust frequently for maximum temperature and you’ll have good reason to look smug and brag when you and your buddies gas up.
This tech tip was supplied by Pete Amsler and printed in the June 1997 “A” Quail Call.
